(Manfed Klimek / animated pic: runwayml)
The Lake Constance region is not a traditional German wine-growing area, but rather a geologically and climatically promising region that is now beginning to make its mark – the reason: climate change. Shaped by retreating glaciers that left behind a landscape of moraines and heavy, often rich soils, this region – which is, unfortunately, largely unknown in Germany as a wine-growing area – appears to be a region on the cusp of a new era – and a fresh start is precisely what German wine is currently lacking. The wines I have tasted are fresh, almost crystalline in their aromas, despite growing on lush soils. Grape varieties take a back seat; the aromas are restrained, allowing the vineyard sites to speak volumes. Twelve wineries are currently forming a sort of regional alliance – a first and successful attempt to give Lake Constance a clearer identity.
Even with sparkling wine, it’s clear where this is heading. The ‘Sprudeldicke Dirn’ from the Deufel winery (€17.50) displays an impressive nose: nuts, ripe gooseberry, a hint of pineapple and a slightly earthy note reminiscent of great champagnes. On the palate, it doesn’t quite live up to this promise, but comes very close – supported by the yeast sediment from the Johanniter grape. The Lindau sparkling wine from the Haug Winery (Souvignier Gris, €22.00) takes a different approach: more opulent, with more apple and pear, slightly rougher, less precise, but with a character all of its own.
The Müller-Thurgau Drumlin 2024 from the Schmidt Winery (€25.00) surprises with its coolness and mineral rigour. The bouquet is distinctive, almost Traminer-like, with a slightly sweet note reminiscent of Werther’s Echte; on the palate, it has medium body and clear definition. The 2024 Sauvignon Blanc (€16.90) from Hendriks Winery is similarly cool, playing on a slightly jarring, urban note – like the first step into a Berlin club, before your senses have had a chance to settle.
The region’s future is evident in the cuvées made from fungus-resistant varieties. Lanz Winery in Nonnenhorn blends Johanniter and Souvignier Gris (Bavarian Lake Constance White 2023, €15.50) to create a wine that offers hints of walnut shells, quince and a touch of exotic fruit. Full-bodied but not heavy; rather, a controlled opulence.
The 2023 Nonnenhorner Seehalde Chardonnay from the Kurek Winery (€35.00) is the first real highlight. Taut, with elegant oak integration, it is reminiscent of the great international wines of the 1990s, without adopting their heaviness. The Solaris Soho 2023 from Deufel (€28.00) is quite different: an expressive nose, exotic, almost exuberant, with the oak perfectly integrated, yet with a sense, upon closer inspection, that this grape variety has even more to offer here.
Finally, the classic Burgundy varieties provide the most convincing arguments in favour of the region. The 2023 Pinot Blanc ‘Ortslage’ from Weingut Schmidt (€19.00) shines with precise use of barrique and caramel notes, whilst remaining cool, stony and clear. The Chardonnays from Seehaldenhof also demonstrate this balance: the Seehalde 2021 (€44.90) with noticeable tannins from the vineyard, and the Sonnenbichl 2022 (€47.00), which is slightly rounder, with lovely oak notes and a hint of popcorn, without becoming too broad.
In the Pinot Noirs, the cool, palatable character of Lake Constance is once again evident. Hendriks’ Seehalde 2022 (not yet on the market) impresses with an almost perfect nose, slightly buttery and lactic, yet cool, fruity and precisely guided by the oak – a slender, very German Pinot with a subtle Campari-like bitterness. The 2021 vintage (€23.00) takes it a step further: sour cherry, mushroom, forest floor, damp depth. With the Ringoldsberg 2022 (€30.00), Haug brings a more gnarled, almost archaic Pinot Noir into play, characterised by must, pomace and delicate oak, whilst Gierer’s Seehalde 2022 (€30.00) displays a seductive caramel nose, though it doesn’t quite achieve the same density on the palate.