(Manfred Klimek / Mixology)
We instinctively hesitate when faced with this question. Too many superlatives, too many knee-jerk counter-arguments, too many fine wines that could also lay claim to the title. And yet this very question springs to mind when one drinks Knipser’s Cuvée Marsannier – not out of national exuberance, but out of objective amazement. For this wine challenges not only stylistic certainties, but geographical ones as well.
Marsanne and Viognier are outsiders in Germany. Grape varieties without tradition, without a lobby – zero expectations. This is precisely where the winemakers’ freedom lies. Whilst German white wines often labour within historically established categories – Riesling here, Pinot Noir there – Knipser, with the Marsannier, is embracing a radical shift in perspective: not defending provenance, but asserting quality.
Marsanne is the unsung star of this cuvée. In Hermitage, one of the world’s most prestigious white wine sites, Marsanne – often blended with Roussanne – produces some of the longest-lived, most profound white wines imaginable. Wines that often seem closed when young, but which, with air and time, develop an almost unshakeable calm: nutty, herbaceous, salty, with that inner vibrancy that arises not from acidity, but from structure. Marsanne is not a fragrant grape variety (although its bouquet and aroma are powerful), nor is it one to dazzle. It is well-structured right from the start. And it needs no enhancement through oak or yeast.
Viognier, on the other hand, provides the counterbalance. It too offers fragrance, a touch more texture, and breadth in the opening and on the palate. Yet here too, Knipser displays remarkable discipline. The Viognier in the Marsannier remains restrained; it does not veer into the perfumed, but acts as a deliberately placed accent. White blossoms, yellow fruit, a hint of exoticism – more of a suggestion than a statement. Together, this creates a cuvée that remains surprisingly cool, even though it is made from varieties commonly associated with southern opulence.
What makes this wine so remarkable is its naturalness. It does not seek to explain why Marsanne and Viognier work in the Palatinate. It simply does. Yellow fruit, subtle spice, a calm, dense core, coupled with a texture that carries the wine longer than one might expect. No burst of acidity, no woody notes to prove a point. Instead: balance, depth, and a smooth drinking experience. A white wine that becomes more confident with every sip.
This is precisely where its ultimate significance lies – particularly for the catering trade. The Marsannier is not a star of the show at tastings, but a wine for the table. It pairs well with fish, poultry, veal, vegetables – and surprisingly well with cheese. It doesn’t overwhelm – despite its claim to be a rather unusual, special wine.
The fact that such an unusual wine comes from one of Germany’s most popular wineries, of all places, is certainly no contradiction. Knipser has mastered this art for years: making ambitious wines that do not come across as elitist. The Marsannier is not an intellectually provocative wine, but an invitation. One that quietly but firmly states: German white wine culture need not be limited to German grape varieties.
So is it Germany’s best white wine? Perhaps that is the wrong question. The better one is: which other German white wine is currently broadening horizons so consistently, without constantly emphasising its German origins? And suddenly, the list becomes very short.
(More about Knipser’s wines in the next print edition of the bar magazine “Mixology” – Meininger Verlag)