The Wineparty

Wineparty The Wineparty
MANFRED KLIMEK
BERLIN - WELT AM SONNTAG

Anyone who wants to save wine must stop trying to save it everywhere. Onwards to new markets!

(Claude Auguste) European winegrowing can also be managed to death. It can be dissected in studies, packaged in campaigns, compressed into monthly abstinence periods, while being told that all of this is “for its own good”. That is exactly what is happening now. While winegrowers have cellars full of wine, urban milieus in the old countries of the Atlantic Read the full article…

Honouring Moravia: Two magnificent natural wines from the Czech avant-garde

(Manfred Klimek / Editorial) Natural wines no longer need a justification. They need context. And Moravia is currently providing exactly that like hardly any other region in Europe. Between Znaim/Znojmo, Mikulov and the hills of Kraví Hora, a wine landscape has been emerging for a good ten or fifteen years, born not out of protest against conventional, industrial wines, but out of a desire Read the full article…

Wine from Lake Constance: Made for a new, young generation of wine drinkers

(by Manfred Klimek / Photo: Medienagenten / Location: Freundschaft Berlin / Animation: Runwayml) Lake Constance was for a long time the quiet edge of German winegrowing – little known, as many regions in the east of the country still are today. Not a place for grand narratives, then, but neither a territory for vanities, and therefore more of a transit space between Württemberg, Read the full article…

Salzberg revisited: Is the cult wine myth still alive?

(Manfred Klimek, Photo: Stefan Feichtinger WEIN & CO / wonderfully flawed animation: Runwayml) Heike and Gernot Heinrich were already established young winegrowers when they brought the first Salberg cuvée onto the market in 2001 – 90% Merlot, 10% Zweigelt. It was soon being called the “best Mouton in Austria”, admittedly nonsense, but something the Heinrichs were rightly not unhappy about, Read the full article…

Facebook cancels wine. When will Insta follow? The great threat posed by US providers

(Editorial / Manfred Klimek) It is one of those moments when the industry realises that “digitalisation” does not just mean attractive reach curves, but dependency. Meta – Facebook in this specific case – has, according to concordant industry reports, begun to stop algorithmically recommending pages related to alcohol. Not deleted, not banned, not necessarily sanctioned. But with the help of the algorithm from Read the full article…

Revisited: Philipp Kuhn – the winegrower who made German red wine taste good to me 30 years ago

(Manfred Klimek / Editorial / animated photo: Weingut & Runwayml) I no longer remember exactly what year it was. The late nineties, perhaps the very early 2000s. I only know that at the time I was fairly convinced that German red wine was, at best, a perhaps well-intentioned misunderstanding. Something one tried out of politeness, but not out of Read the full article…

Is this Germany’s best white wine? It is certainly the original cleverest

(Manfred Klimek / Mixology) We instinctively hesitate at this question. Too many superlatives, too many reflexive counterarguments, too many good wines that could likewise lay claim to it. And yet this is precisely the question that imposes itself when you drink Knipser’s Cuvée Marsannier – not out of national exuberance, but out of objective astonishment. For this wine presents Read the full article…

What this magnum bottle of red wine tells us about the wine crisis.

(Manfred Klimek) I only wanted to buy Bilomilk when I suddenly found myself standing in front of a small wooden crate: a magnum bottle of Faustino Rivero Ulecia Reserva 2019, attractively and presentably packaged – and all for €9.90 at the Netto discount supermarket. A moment of astonishment, followed by a vigorous furrowing of the brow and then: an inner nod. For this bottle tells us a great deal Read the full article…

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